The Canteen has quietly earned a reputation for offering one of the finest window seats in Portsmouth, and for many, it is hard to think of a better place to sit and watch the ships passing. Positioned so close to the water that passing ships feel almost within reach, it offers a rare sense of immersion. On calm days there is the gentle sound of waves against the shore, and at high tide, the waves can often make its presence known on the outside decking. It is a place that encourages you to slow down, focus on good food and take in the movements of the harbour.
This closeness to the water gives The Canteen a unique quality which beats anywhere else in the city. Breakfast here is special, framed by open views and the steady movement of vessels entering and leaving Portsmouth Harbour. It is a setting that engages the senses whilst enjoying the menu which The Canteen provides, making it easy to switch off from the wider world for a while.
Of course, a visit pairs perfectly with a walk through Old Portsmouth, and there is an ideal route for those looking to explore the area on foot. After breakfast, heading up to the top of the Round Tower offers sweeping 360 degree views across the harbour and coastline, an option best suited to those with good mobility. From there, the walk continues along the Hot Walls, following the historic fortifications towards Clarence Pier and revealing some of the city’s most impressive viewpoints along the way, catching a glimpse of the commercially-operated hovercraft to the Isle of Wight if you’re lucky, only two of these routes in the world!
A short inland detour along Pembroke Road brings you past one of Portsmouth’s two cathedrals, a detail that often surprises visitors and speaks to the city’s impressive history. From this point, the route can be tailored to suit the pace of the day. One option is to cut back down the High Street towards The Canteen, taking time to walk along the beach beneath the Hot Walls. Alternatively, the longer loop continues towards The A Bar, turning back on yourself around the fine-dining venue and then into Feltham Row, passing the fish market and the public toilets en route. The walk then passes The Camber along a small walkway, before arriving back at The Canteen for a well-earned coffee.
For those keen to extend the walk further, Old Portsmouth offers another rewarding stretch along the harbour. Still and West and the Spice Island Inn sit proudly with open views across the water, making both pubs natural stopping points and reminders of Portsmouth’s long relationship with the sea and the Royal Navy, with naval ships often seen in the distance, as well as HMS Warrior 1860 and the striking Spinnaker Tower which would be hard to miss!.
Whether planned as a leisurely weekend outing or an unhurried morning escape, this combination of food, water, history and walking captures Old Portsmouth at its very best. The Canteen sits at the heart of it all, not just as a place to eat, but as a vantage point from which the city feels particularly alive throughout the day, where the views are most certainly never boring.
The Canteen can be found at Point Battery and Barracks, Broad Street, Old Portsmouth, PO1 2FS.
